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Click to download Instructions in
English.
Click to download Instructions in Spanish. Installation Instructions
Step 1: Preparing the Surface
Wood surfaces: Unpainted masonry, brick, or concrete block: If the surface is clean and free of any release agents or oils the stone can be applied directly to the surface. If there is any question about the surface, we recommend using wire lath and a scratch coat. Painted or sealed masonry, brick, or concrete block: It is best to apply wire lath and a scratch coat when applying stone over a treated surface. However, a concrete bonding agent may be used or the surface may be sand-blasted or water-blasted to expose an untreated surface. The stone may be installed on the untreated surface. Metal surfaces: Attach a vapor/moisture barrier such as felt paper to the surface. Next, attach at least 2.5 lb. galvanized lath with self-tapping screws every 6" on center. Screws should penetrate 3/8” beyond the surface. Step 2: Mixing the Mortar Mortar may be mixed in a mortar mixer or in five gallon buckets with a heavy duty power drill using a mixing paddle. Always use TYPE "N" masonry mortar. The correct formula is as follows: It is recommended to match the color of your mortar to the color of your stone. Masonry cement comes in gray, white, or a premixed color. You can add dye to the mortar for coloring or you can use different colored sands in the mix to get the desired color. Step 3: Applying the Scratch Coat 
Mix the mortar with just enough water for a workable consistency, almost the consistency of peanut butter. If you are applying the mortar to a masonry wall, wet the existing masonry first. Apply a thin coat of mortar to the wall with a trowel, approximately ¼" to ½" thick on a masonry surface; or just enough to cover the metal lath on a wood surface. It is best but not necessary to let this scratch coat set up before applying the stone. Step 4: Choosing Stones When preparing to install the stone, choose stones from different boxes to blend the material on the wall as slight color variation between boxes is to be expected. Try to blend the stone colors and textures evenly throughout the pattern. Step 5: Applying the Stone 
Pick a stone and wet it by dipping it in a bucket of water. This will help the stone bond to the mortar. Butter the back of the stone with a ½" layer of mortar. Press the stone firmly into place with a gentle wiggling motion to promote bonding. The mortar on the back of the stone should squeeze out around the edges of the stone. Always install the corner stones first. Corner stones have a long side and a short side. These sides should be alternated as shown in this picture. 
Apply the remaining stones by working from the bottom up or from the top down. Stones should be installed a minimum of 4" above finished grade. Mortar joints between stones should be about ½” and as uniform as possible, except in drystack applications. If you are installing a drystack style joint, the stones should be installed butting each other. Be careful to keep your lines straight and level. Nailing a level string or snapping a level chalk line across the face of the wall is helpful. 
Stones may be broken or cut with an abrasive masonry blade as needed. When making cuts, place the cut edge away from where it is most likely to be seen. For example, if the stone is placed above eye level, place the cut edge on the top side of the stone. If the stone is being placed below eye level, place the cut edge on the bottom side of the stone. It is best to let the bonding mortar dry first before grouting the joints. Step 6: Grouting Joints 
Choose the desired mortar color. Mix the mortar as previously described. Lightly mist the stone with water to help bonding. Using a grout bag, squeeze the mortar evenly and firmly into the joints to fill all voids. Do not dress (clean up) the mortar right away. You do not want to smear the mortar onto the face of the stone. If you smear mortar on the face of the stone at this stage it is very hard if not impossible to clean off. Allow the mortar to set up until it is firm and becomes workable. You will know that it is time to work the joints when the mortar dries to a clay-like consistency. This will keep mortar from smearing the face of the stone. Do not allow mortar to set up overnight or too long before dressing and cleaning the stone. Step 7: Dressing the Stone 
When the mortar joints are firm, use a wood or metal striking tool and remove excess mortar. At the same time, firmly press the mortar into the joints so the edges are thoroughly sealed and rainwater will run off the joint without puddling. 
The final step is to brush the mortar joints with a whisk broom until they are smooth and all loose mortar has been brushed away. Brush off any loose mortar from the face of stone. Never let mortar set up overnight before brushing the joints. Final Clean-Up and Sealing Clean any remaining grout off the stone with a damp stiff brush. You may wish to apply a masonry-type breathable waterproof sealer to the surface of the stone, as a sealed surface provides ease in cleaning. This is particularly recommended on a light colored fireplace. Use of a breathable sealer is recommended only after the mortar has thoroughly cured for approximately one month. Maintenance Our stone is virtually maintenance free. An occasional light washing of the surface will keep your stone looking new. Light detergents may be used but DO NOT use sandblasting, high-powered pressurized water blasting or acid solutions to clean your stone as you may damage the surface and color. Click to download Instructions in
English.
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On
a structurally sound wall, in accordance with local building codes, apply a
water/moisture barrier such as felt paper. We strongly recommend a 30 lb. felt
paper or two layers of 15 lb. felt paper. Be sure felt is overlapped properly.
The felt paper should be applied from the bottom of the wall up and the higher
piece should overlap the lower piece. Next, in accordance with local building
code, apply a minimum 2.5 lb. galvanized lath by nailing or stapling with
galvanized attachments 6” on center and penetrating the studs 1”. Always
overlap sections of lath 2". The metal lath must be installed with the cups
facing upwards. When you run your hand down the lath it should feel rough and
when you run your hand up the lath it should feel smooth.